Manure is a Valuable Fertilizer

By Sherrie Ottinger (The Tennessee Dirtgirl)

Let’s talk about healing the soil, bringing life back to the ground, and allowing it to function the way nature intends it to. Starting with animal manure and urine. In “clean” operations (grass-fed, no antibiotics, etc.), that are organic in practice, what comes out the back side, is valuable, and a good farmer knows this. Poop and pee are what’s left after the animal eats and digests what it needs. Anywhere from 70%-90% of plant nutrients are excreted. That’s a lot of good organics!

When looking at NPK one might think that poop/pee aren’t very healthful, but don’t be fooled by numbers, and don’t think that low numbers equal low value to the soil.

Soiled bedding, and manure should be applied to the garden area at least two months before planting, to allow time for it to compost. And all manures aren’t the same. The main ones that shouldn’t be used in a garden, compost, or anywhere food will be raised, are cat, dog, and human. They may contain toxins and pathogens that won’t die, even in “hot” compost.

My personal favorites are rabbit, goat, alpaca, llama, and sheep, because I can use them “fresh”. For years I’ve used my goat’s offing’s in all my beds, straight from the barn. These particular animals digest more thoroughly, so the manure isn’t as likely to burn plant roots or stems. You might have a neighbor who would share their waste with you. In cities where there are zoos, the manure from the animals is being sold for compost.

Nutrients from manures vary, depending on diet, the animal, the bedding quality/quantity in the mix, and more. The older the manure, the lesser the nutrients, but the better the humus. On the other hand, fresher has more odor and is wetter to work with.

POULTRY – a.k.a. “hen dressing” – is one of the “hottest” (higher in nitrogen) choices. It’s also fairly rich in potash and phosphorous. This is a great manure for the garden but it MUST be well composted before use. Composting allows it to go through the decaying process, when it will get well over 100-degrees. Be sure to source your manure, no matter what kind it is. I would never use manure from a CAFO operation, or factory-run farm, due to toxins, antibiotics, etc. I have chickens, thankfully, so I know the source of my manure. It comes from chickens that are free-range, eat grass and bugs, scratch in the dirt, and are fed plenty of vegetables and good stuff. If I were going to get chicken poop from somewhere else, I’d want to see how they operate first.

HORSE – not as “hot” as chicken manure, but still needs composting. It has some potash and phosphorous. Horses don’t digest a lot of the weed seeds they eat, so you’ll find plenty sprouting in the composting pile.

COW – nutrient numbers are low in this one, but it still needs to go through the “heat” before using…unless you’re putting it on to break down over winter. Like horse manure, you’ll find plenty undigested weed seeds.

I have told you about my personal choices, and why, but I’ll use ANY good manure, and be grateful for it! If you have access to an animal sanctuary, a zoo, a large organic animal operation, don’t hesitate to check and see if they have extra manure or soiled bedding you can use.

My philosophy is, if it carbon-based, it’ll rot, so I can use it. As far as weed seeds, I recommend solarizing the pile it’s composting in, or the garden it’s spread upon. The sun will bake the seeds and kill many pathogens too, making your work easier.

The Tennessee Dirtgirl