Moving Outdoor Plants Inside

Bring your plants in from the cold!

Do you have plants that you “summered” outside, and now they need to come back in? Lots of folks will just bring them in and get surprised by the insect population that came in with them. Following a few steps can save you much aggravation later.

If the plants, which are tender, spent their summer outside, they’ve been quite content. Plants as a rule don’t want to live indoors. Humans have brought them in for their own enjoyment. Indoor conditions are brutal on houseplants. Dry, hot air, drafts, not enough light, over/under watering, unnecessary fertilization, and even being the recipient of someone’s unwanted drink. It’s hard to give a plant what it needs in our modern homes, and keep the people comfortable as well. A few steps can give them a better chance for survival until they can go back outside.

Preparing your guests
Before you bring them in: fill a five-gallon bucket halfway, with warm water and a couple tablespoons of liquid soap. It should say “soap,” not detergent. I like to use medicated dog/cat shampoo. Sit the plant, pot and all into that bath. The water should at least come over the rim of the pot. Take a spray bottle of the same warm water mixture and spray all the plant parts that are above the water. Let it sit for 5 minutes or more. You may see insects exiting the soil. This is good! Take the potted plant out and sit it on the porch to drain…be sure you remove the drip tray. Repeat this with all the plants going back inside. When everyone is drained and dry take them to the overwintering spot.

A word about this spot. It should be near bright indirect light, away from any heat vents, and easily accessible for you to do periodic health checks. If lighting is an issue, maybe invest in a grow light to keep the plants in good shape. Never place a plant where the drafts from outside doors opening/closing will chill them. Pea-gravel trays topped off with water is a great place to sit a plant where it’ll get more humidity than indoor air avails.

Keeping them comfortable
Other tips: All pots MUST have drainage. No fertilize until spring. Plants need a rest period like anything else and fertilizer tells it that you want it to grow. Winter is for them to just stay healthy and maintain. Before you water, stick your index finger into the soil up to the middle knuckle. Does the soil feel cool and moist? No water is needed. Plants do better if the soil is allowed to dry out a bit in winter. Remember, they’re not producing. They’re resting. It may be weeks before your finger tester says the soil is dry 2” down … and remember … the roots are even further down than that. Don’t water “just because.” If you use drip trays, never let them stand in water. This is equivalent to drowning. If you have a large plant in a tray, use a turkey baster or a big sponge to remove the water after 30 minutes.

Some of the worst pest problems are scale, mealy bug, and white flies. A regular spritz of soapy water (again, I like to use medicated pet shampoo) will help mitigate that. Overwatering can cause sour soil, which breeds insect problems too. Mid-winter I take my plants to the bathtub – without the trays – and I spray them really well with the soapy water mixture. After the sit for a few minutes, I give them a warm shower, pot and all, then let them drip dry before placing them back in their spots.

Just remember, plants came from OUTSIDE, and they will tolerate indoor conditions until they can go back outside, if we do all we can to help them.

Sherrie Ottinger, The Tennessee Dirtgirl